Highly delayed in my review of a complex beer for the not-quite-as-snobish, last week I had the opportunity to spend some time with a bottle of the Boulevard Brewing Co. Bourbon Barrel Quad ("BBQ".) Since we're already a week behind, I'll include a few pennies on Great Divide's new Pilsner, "Nomad."
The one thing I've committed to in my half-assed review of beers, is to do my best to avoid silly adjectives that don't really explain anything about taste. These things started with wine drinkers (or perhaps interior designers) who use terms like "earthen-notes" and "fruity character" to describe the beverage they're drinking. Using the term "fruity" is copping out of an apples and oranges comparison by saying its both.
Its not.
Boulevard Bourbon Barrel Quad.
For those otherwise unawares, being a "bourbon barrel quad" really defines much of it's character. The bourbon barrel aspect should be straight forward, indicating that the beer is fermented in a bourbon barrel, usually for secondary fermentation after the beer has started fermenting. Most beers go through at least two separate fermentation stages in order to avoid imparting off-flavors caused by sediment that accumulates during initial stage.
The BBQ is based loosely on Boulevard's "Sixth Glass" abbey-style ale, and the "Quad" in it's name references it's definition as a Quadrupel ale. The initial fermentation was done with cherries, then separated out into multiple different bourbon barrels and blended after the last-stage fermentation. As the label states, it brings very little of the cherries sourness to the beer.
The beer will bring a slight sour and sweetness at first, then follows with the distinct flavor of bourbon on the back of the palate. Boulevard describes this similarly though they described "notes of vanilla and toffee," which leads me to believe they don't drink bourbon very often (or perhaps I'm not extrapolating far enough on the taste.)
Zooming out to the beer on a whole, the most remarkable aspect of the beer is simple: It is not a bourbon barrel stout. That's not a negative judgment by any means. Most beer aged in bourbon barrels is going to have a very over-powering bourbon taste, which is why I don't spend much time commenting on the more distinct flavor aspects. The important element in this beer is how well the Bourbon character fits into a Quadrupel style ale, and the fact that Boulevard was able to pull it off.
The best character analysis I could give, would be a faint sour beginning (cherries) that moves into the more spiced (with Belgians, think Coriander) taste that the traditional Belgian abbey would have, which follows with a very pronounced sweet bourbon at the end.
Worth the (characteristically) low price most stores will sell it; $11.99 if you can still find a bottle.
On to the lager!
Pilsner lagers are difficult to really define, because they're generally so similar. However unlike ales, a Pilsner Lager has 3 generally distinct elements that vary from beer to beer.
1. Hoppiness/Character - Generally Hoppiness in a Lager is considered an off-flavor. However, any beer needs to be hopped to balance out the sweetness of the malt. The ideal pilsner will still have a little bitter trace on the tongue, with a little sweetness to back it up, though it won't be so bitter it becomes dry or so sweet it's like soda-pop. Sometimes those extremes in a Pilsner are welcomed, however. (For a sweet pilsner, try the Oskar Blues "Mama's Lil' Yella Pils." For a Hoppy Pilsner, try Avery's "Joe's Pilsner")
2. The effects of temperature and food - The ideal pilsner should warm well, and not offend the palate as it's temperature rises above 34 degrees. Hoppier Pilsners will always contort some facial muscles as it warms up, too sweet and it will dominate the palate too much if you're eating.
3. Sessionability - The Pilsner lager was created as a session beer, that being... it was designed to allow you to drink a few without spending the latter half of your evening and the following morning hugging the toilet.
In all seriousness however, sessionability is actually more influenced by the gravity and (as a result) sweetness of a beer. Sweeter beers will generally have higher calorie content and will usually "fill you up" more. Not to sound cliche, but the old advertisements did have some validity. In addition, sweeter beers generally yield a higher alcohol content (yeast converts sugar to alcohol.)
So how goes the Great Divide Nomad?
1. It's definitely got a pricks worth of bite from the hops on the back of the palate, a little sweetness up front.
2. It warms well, and the taste doesn't deviate much from it's chilled state. It certainly doesn't distort the face like hoppy pilsners do, and while I have yet to try it with a nice dinner, the taste doesn't feel over-powering on the palate.
3. I'm on number 3 (literally) and after writing for about an hour I'm still sober, still eagerly awaiting dinner, and number 3 still tastes like number 1.
Overall: The happy medium between Polestar and Mama's. 5/5, and arguably the best beer Great Divide makes (except Austin's small batch Cuvass, which won't be released publicly.)
P.S. December's beer of the month was Victory Brewing Company's Dark Intrigue Imperial Stout. The Import of the Year, was a beer called " Gudeløs" by Bryggeriet Djævlebryg and the Danish Atheist Society. Try a bottle if you can dig it up!
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